Radon Condensate Bypass Instructions


Why do I need a condensate bypass for my radon fan?

Radon fans actively suck air out from under your house. Often this air is relatively warm and very high in humidity. When this warm moist air meets the cold walls of the radon exhaust pipe the moisture can condense in the pipe. This can lead to a significant amount of water running back down the pipe. Without the condensate bypass assembly this water runs straight back through the fan itself. This can lead to rust, deterioration, and early failure of the fan. So the bypass serves to prolong the life of your radon fan.

How do I install a condensate bypass for a Radon fan?

Before beginning it is important to plan where the radon fan and condensate bypass are going to be located. The fan should be outside the conditioned space of the building. In an unheated attic is ideal with the pipe run out through the roof or a gable end. If this is not possible it can be mounted on an outside wall with the pipe run up the outside of the building.

The completed fan and bypass assembly is approximately 43″ high so, if you plan to put it in an attic, ensure that there is at least that much height to work with before you begin.

The fan also requires a 120V AC circuit so it is important to plan how you are going to get power to the fan before you begin.

Materials Required (prices shown as of January 2010 – total cost approx. $245.00)

1 – Fantech HP-190 Radon Fan (4″ pipe) – $174.00 (Available from Energetechs)

We get the following items from Mountain Supply in Missoula () but any plumbing supply place should have them. (Approximately $65.00)

1 – 14″ length of 3″ Sch-40 PVC pipe.

2 – Sch-40 PVC “Y” fittings

2 – Sch-40 PVC “Street 45″ elbows

2 – Sch-40 PVC end caps (we prefer the domed variety but any will work)

2 – “No Hub” fittings labelled “3″ PLASTIC SOCKET TO 3″ PIPE”

PVC glue and primer if you don’t already have these.

PLUS we get the following items from Ace Hardware (Approximately $6.00)

2 – 1/8″ Hose Barb to 1/8″ MPT fittings

1 – 2′ length of 1/4″ OD plastic tubing

Silicon sealant if you don’t already have it.

Instructions for assembling a Radon Condensate Bypass.

1. Take the 14″ piece of PVC pipe and cut it into four 3.5″ lengths.

2. Glue one of the “Street 45″ PVC elbows into each of the “Y” fittings.

Completed "Y" Assembly

Completed "Y" Assembly

3. Glue one of the 3.5″ pieces of PVC pipe into one end of each “Y” and one into each of the “Street 45″ elbows.

4. Drill a 3/8″ hole in the center of each of the PVC end caps.

End caps with holes drilled

End caps with holes drilled

5. Screw one of the Hose Barb fittings into each of the end caps.

End Cap with Hose Barb

End Cap with Hose Barb

6. Glue one of the end caps onto each of the pipes already glued into the “Y” fitting.

"No-Hub" connecting fan to "Y" assembly.

"No-Hub" connecting fan to "Y" assembly.

7. Attach one of the completed “Y” assemblies to each end of the radon fan using the “No Hub” fittings. Take care to leave an inch of pipe exposed at each end of the fan assembly as shown. This allows for easy replacement of the fan in the future.

8. Once the “Y” assemblies are attached to the fan, attach one end of the plastic tubing to one of the Hose Barb fittings. Cut the tubing to the correct length and attach the other end to the other Hose Barb fitting.

Completed Radon Fan Condensate Bypass.

Completed Radon Fan Condensate Bypass.

This completes the bypass assembly. Once you have it put together you can insert it into the radon exhaust pipe in the place you have planned for it. Then all you need to do is to connect the power to the fan and your radon exhaust system with condensate bypass will be up and running.